Quiet Mdina, Not Quite Silent

The beautiful walled city of Mdina is the perfect place to start a trip to Malta. Located on the highest inland position on the island, it was strategically positioned to serve as the capital for much of history. Archeological finds date back to 1500 BC, and the fortified city was founded by the Phoenicians as Maleth in the 8th century BC. It remained the capital under various names through Roman, Byzantine, Arab, and Norman rule. The name Mdina comes from the “medina,” the Arabic word for city.

When the Catholic Military Order of St. John took over Malta in 1530, the capital was moved to Birgu. Although the Mdina remained central to subsequent battles with the Ottomans and the French, it never regained it’s status as the capital. Today the city is closed to traffic with the exception of residents and service vehicles, earning Mdina the nickname of the “Silent City.”

Mdina is one of my favorite places in Malta. Relatively free of vehicles, wandering the small winding streets is a great way to discover the unique mix of architectural styles. However, with 250 residents, there were more vehicles than I was expecting  and it is a popular tourist destination. I recommend visiting in the morning or evening to experience what I would call a quiet, but not quite silent city.

Horse drawn carriage tours are available outside the main gates.  The short tour can help you get oriented within the city walls.

The guide may also share information that you would otherwise miss. In our case, he pointed out the Nunnery of St. Benedict, a strict order that dates back to 1450. There are reportedly four remaining nuns that live in complete isolation, remaining in the building even after death. If there is any place in Mdina that can claim complete silence, I assume it would be the Nunnery.

The carriage provides a great vantage point for taking photos of the narrow alleys and St. Paul’s Cathedral.

However, there is no escaping a walk around the city. After a carriage tour, you will no doubt want to revisit every alleyway on foot.

It’s fun to explore the various architectural styles, and unique Maltese touches including the door knockers. Although, I wonder who dares to knock loudly in the “Silent City.”

When you are done wandering the city, stop by the Fontanelle Tea Garden.

The unassuming sign in a small alleyway leads you to a cute cafe.

Wander upstairs for a meal with the best views in Mdina.  This is a great place to try traditional Maltese Pastizzi, flakey savory pastries filled with ricotta or mashed peas.  Fontanella’s famous chocolate cake is a homey version filled with chocolate buttercream and topped with a rich ganache.  True to the signs, this cake is pretty much the same thing as happiness.  Fontanella is open until midnight, so you can enjoy a glass of wine in the evening.

Access:

Malta is about 1 hour by bus (search Malta Public Transport), or 25 minutes by car from Valletta.