Valletta, Built by Gentlemen but Great for Everyone

Valletta is called the “city built by gentlemen for gentlemen” by several travel resources, including the Malta Tourism Authority.  Depending on the source, you will see the origins of the phrase either attributed to 16th century city founder Jean Parisot de la Valette, or 19th century British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli. Regardless of who originally coined the phrase, it is dated.  After a recent trip to Valletta with some amazing women, I would argue that Valletta may have been built for gentlemen, but it has something to offer for everyone.

The charming pint sized capital of Malta, is an impressive fortified city built on the limestone hills of the Sciberras Peninsula. Located between two harbors, the peninsula was historically a key strategic hold to maintain control of Malta. The city of Valletta was founded by the Catholic Military Order of St. John in 1566, but the peninsula was earlier ruled by the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, and Arabs. Napoleon conquered Malta and occupied Valletta in 1798, but was driven out by the British two years later.  Malta remained part of the British Empire until 1964.  The city’s diverse history makes it a great destination for history and military buffs. Although it was heavily bombed during World War II, many historic sites miraculously survived. Valletta is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the European Capital of Culture for 2018.

A dear family friend reminded me that Queen Elizabeth is said to have spent her happiest days in Malta as a young princess and navy wife.  Royal watchers may be interested in visiting some of the Queen’s favorite haunts, including the recently refurbished Hotel Phoenicia where the Queen reportedly perfected her Samba.

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Valletta is known for its beautiful churches and palaces, gardens, and baroque architecture.

The steep narrow streets, historic buildings in various styles, Maltese balconies, and retro shop signs serve as layered timestamps.  One street can transport you to the 17th century, and just around the corner you are back to the 1950s.

The city is small, but almost every path will eventually lead you to an uphill climb.

If you get tired, there are great cafes, bars, and restaurants.  Many places have outdoor seating; there’s no better way to soak up Valletta’s charming atmosphere.

The Upper Barakka Gardens is often recommended as the most scenic location in Valletta. It can be easily accessed by lift from the Grand Harbor.  The Terrace offers beautiful views of the Grand Harbor and Malta’s Three Cities.

Even the land locked side is beautiful during the sunset.

I prefer the view from the less popular and generally less crowded twin, Lower Barakka Garden.  Past the monument to a British Admiral, you can see the mouth of the Grand Harbor.

My recommendation is to catch the view looking back at the Upper Barakka during sunset.

Another amazing view, and probably the most recognized views of Valletta itself, is on the other side of the peninsula.  You can get a beautiful view of the city skyline from Marsamxett Harbour.  Catch a ferry ride to Sliema, the town across the harbor.  The ferry ride is only € 1.50, and takes 15 minutes.  The view from the ferry is unbeatable, and if you have time, you can walk along Sliema’s seafront promenade.

Access:

Valletta is 4-5 hours by ferry from Sicily and a one hour flight from Rome.  The island of Malta is so small that most attractions can be reached by bus in less than one hour.