Deep in Tokushima, Oboke Gorge and Iya Valley

Deep in the mountains of Tokushima Prefecture on the Island of Shikoku, the Oboke Gorge (Big Dangerous Steps) and Koboke Gorge (Small Dangerous Steps) lead to the Iya (Rushing Stream) Valley. The area is remote even today, but historically it was the perfect place to go into hiding. The Taira clan was said to have retreated to the area after losing a war during the Heian period of the 12 century. According to local folklore, the area is also home to yokai (sprits and monsters).

Oboke Station is small and unmanned, with the exception of the permanently positioned station master (who may very well be yokai).

Friendly town residents volunteer to staff the station and assist visitors.  In particular, the popular tourist train Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari receives quite a warm welcome.

I had been warned by both guidebooks and friends not to attempt visiting the area without a car, but I set out to prove that it could be done. We opted for combination of local bus, walking, and taxis as needed. First we took a bus to Iya Kazurabashi (mountain vine bridge). Kazurabashi were once common in the area. The bridges were designed to transport people and goods across the river, with the ability to quickly cut with a sword to stop the enemy from following.

There are only three bridges remaining today. Iya Kazurabashi stretches 45 meters across and only 14 meters above the rapids of the Iya River. You can cross the bridge (in one direction only) for 550 yen.

The Iya Kazurabashi is anchored by large cedar trees. Not seeing anyone with a samurai sword nearby, it seemed safe to cross. It’s a fairly crowded attraction as far as the area goes, but between being early and some heavy rain, we had the place to ourselves for a few minutes.

The bridges are rebuilt every three years.

I guess the vines only hold for so long.

It’s really not that high, and these days the bridge is reinforced with steel cables.

Go ahead and look down, the water is beautiful.

The view from the middle of the bridge isn’t bad either.

We did see a few people pay to cross before changing their mind (the bridge does sway quite a bit). There is a parallel concrete bridge that can be used instead.  I loved the vine bridge.  I’m not sure everyone with me felt the same way.

The Biwa waterfall is a short walk from the bridge.

There are trails that lead you to the water.

There are several make-shift restaurants offering local cuisine and gifts. It could be called a tourist trap, but given the lack of restaurants and stores in town, it’s a good place to grab some local soba or salt encrusted amego roasted over coals.

We didn’t want to wait three hours for the next bus, and every taxi company in the area was booked for the day. Thanks to a very nice man in a local cafe, we found a shared taxi from the Kazurabashi parking lot. The shuttle driver was very friendly.  He explained that the area was almost impossible to navigate without a car.  Most residents drive, and older citizens generally shop at mobile markets that drive through weekly.  We were the only ones on the shuttle until we reached Oboke Station. Unfortunately there were about a dozen people waiting at the station and a handful got left behind. We continued on the loop to the Oboke Pleasure Boat Cruise. The boats depart every 20-30 minutes for 1,080 yen.

Even in the rain, the water of the Oboke Gorge ranges between aqua and emerald green.

The water is so clear that you can see the rocks and fish in the water.

The guide only speaks Japanese, but it is mainly about the different rock configurations. You can just enjoy the scenery.

From the boat tour it is a 20 minute walk back to Oboke Station.

Just walk along the river away from the boat tour.  Eventually you will spot Oboke and the station across the river, cross at the first bridge.  At times you are walking along the main road without much of a side walk. The buses and trucks speeding by can be a bit unsettling, but it is otherwise an easy walk. Along the way, you can visit the Yokai museum and rest stop and visit some small mom and pop grocery stores along the way. The complete lack of convenience stores is unusual for Japan, but somehow refreshing.  Don’t worry, there are vending machines.

We took our time wandering around and had a great day trip.  Next time I will rent a car to see some of the less visited areas.  There are two more vine bridges that I need to cross!

Details

Oboke Station is about 2 hours from Okayama or 1 hour from Kochi, fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass. If you really want to explore the area and make the most of the hiking and rafting opportunities, I recommend booking a rental from the nearest cities Tokushima (1.5 hour drive) or Kochi (1 hour drive) – Great deals on wheels with Skyscanner car rentals.

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Instead, you can book a local ryokan, many will provide a shuttle from the station.

It is difficult, but possible to get around using local transportation.  Public buses are few and far between, but run more frequently on weekends. The Oboke Station Sotani Line Bus Schedule 大歩危駅前祖谷線 is online in Japanese.
The times in black run every day but blue is limited to Sat, Sun, and Holidays. Look for Oboke Station Front (大歩危駅前）and Kazurabashi (かずら橋). Please check with the station to confirm the latest schedule.

The Shared Taxi was is currently offered on weekdays only until Dec 5.  The shared taxi makes three loops daily to all the major attractions and is available only on a first come-first serve basis.  Please check with the station staff to for estimated schedule. Private taxi tours are available, but must be booked in advance.