Georgia Road Trip, Journey to Kazbegi

The journey to Kazbegi is a memorable one. Approximately three hours from Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Road, the actual transit time is hard to predict. The steep two lane road serves as the main ground transit route to Russia from Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia. The road is crowded with old trucks and slow moving farm equipment.

With almost no space to pass, it is general practice to overtake slow vehicles in the oncoming traffic lane. Unless you are prepared to engage in this high stakes game of chicken, it’s best to book a trusted driver or tour. Inexperienced drivers may also be surprised by flocks of sheep and herds of cows regularly using the road for both transit and lounging. These free roaming Caucasus animals are not intimidated by vehicular traffic. Luckily, the route offers countless scenic vistas and attractions along the way.

On a recent day trip, we first stopped for a quick photo at the Zhinvali water reservoir. The artificial lake was created by a hydroelectric dam on the Aragvi River.

The next stop was the beautiful Ananuri Castle Complex on the Aragvi River. The complex includes a number of structures built between the 14th and 17th centuries.

The parking lot is littered with souvenir stands, and the complex is a closely confined space. I recommend stopping for a photo when you can capture the whole complex at a distance. Don’t worry if you miss it, the best photo opportunity is at the top of the central tower below.

The problem is getting there. You have a choice of climbing through two side towers. Unfortunately the stairs have worn away.

The tower on the right side is apparently the easier route.

Once you make your way up the side tower, you need to cross to the main tower. The floor was literally a series of logs laid across a large open space. The main tower had steep stairs in an increasingly tight space. I was beginning to regret my choice of entering the tower until I saw the view.

Make sure you take time to appreciate the view before attempting the trip back down.

Our next stop was the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument. Built in 1983, it is currently under renovation, but the surrounding views are still stunning.

It’s a popular area for paragliding.

Finally we reached our main destination of Stepantsminda, also still known as Kazbegi.  The town in the shadows of Mount Kazbek has officially reverted to its pre-Soviet name, but the surrounding national park is still named Kazbegi.

Stepantsminda is known for its view of the Tsminda Sameba Church and Mount Kazbek.

The church can be accessed by a 3 hour hike or 40 minute drive by special jeep. Our driver had the right equipment, but elected to hire a local driver. The two-way one-lane steep gradient dirt path over boulders, tree roots and deep craters is impossible to explain. It should definitely be left to the professionals.

Luckily the view is a great reward for the rough journey.

The Tsminda Sameba Church, also known as the Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century. The location made it a good place to hide important relics for safekeeping in times of conflict. Trust me, it’s still difficult to access today.

My friend told the driver how lucky he must be to live in such a beautiful place. He offered to leave her behind.

We’re planning to visit her this spring.

Details

Many tour operators offer day trips or 2 day tours to Kazbegi. A friend who lives in Tbilisi arranged for a private driver/guide at $240 for a 10 hour tour.  The going rate is typically between $200 – $260 for a day-trip. Our driver also paid for the second driver to go up to the Tsminda Sameba Church. This is not always included in the base tour and typically costs $40-60 round trip.

The Georgian Military Road can be dangerous. Make sure your tour guide has good equipment. Georgians drive on the right side of the road, but our driver had an imported car with the steering wheel on the right. This made it much more dangerous to pass in oncoming lanes. Our driver’s vehicle was a modified SUV specifically designed for off-roading. Unless that is necessary for your tour, I recommend making sure that the steering wheel is on the correct side.

We stayed in Tbilisi and took a day trip, but if you have more time it is worth staying in the scenic towns on the way. A friend recommended the beautiful Rooms Hotel in Stepantsminda, and it is definitely on my list for the next trip.

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