Matsue, A Cool Castle Town Before Lafcadio Hearn

Matsue is the capital of Shimane, the second most populated prefecture in Japan. It is the second most populated city on the Sea of Japan, after Niigata. It boasts the second largest of 12 original remaining Japanese castles. The nearby Izumo Taisha is considered the second most important Shinto shrine in Japan, after Ise Grand Shrine in Mie. There is nothing secondary about this charming castle town, Matsue may have a complex.  The city seems to think that its main claim to fame is Lafcadio Hearn.

Even if you haven’t heard of Lafcadio Hearn, you will know his life story by the time you leave Matsue. Born to Greek and Irish parents, he was essentially abandoned by his family as a child and had a difficult life before becoming a writer in the United States. He lived in New Orleans and the French West Indies before finding himself in Japan. Hearn spent his first year in Japan in Matsue and married the daughter of a local samurai. He became a Japanese citizen and took on the name Koizumi Yakumo. Hearn is known for his writing on Japan, particularly his book Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan.

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Hearn was a remarkable writer and had a fascinating life. Yet on my visit, I was puzzled at the emphasis that Matsue places on him throughout the city. You can visit his old residence in the preserved samurai district, and the Lafcadio Hearn museum is right next door. It doesn’t stop there, his picture is scattered at bus stops and most major attractions around the city. Matsue’s tourist campaign message seems to be “Lafcadio Hearn was here!” I don’t dispute that Hearn is an important to Matsue, but the castle town’s history is much more than his one year in town.

Matsue Castle is one of 12 original castles left in Japan.  The grounds are well preserved, you may even spot a samurai roaming the grounds.

Completed in 1611, the castle has 5 floors and a basement.  Castles weren’t built for easy access so it takes some claiming to get there.

There is no comparison between visiting one of Japan’s original castles and a reconstructed version.

The original castles are generally harder to navigate. Especially with the slippery worn wood (you must remove your shoes) and very steep steps.

A woman in her 70s giggled at my hesitation as she ran up and down the stairs. She looked like my mother, and I remembered that my grandparent’s house had a similarly steep wood staircase.

If you have any doubt that the climb is worth it, signs will tell you that Lafcadio Hearn enjoyed the sunset view over Lake Shinji.

Matsue Shrine is right next to the castle.

You can leave an ema (wooden plaque to offer prayers) for a successful love connection.

The next door Kounkaku Mansion was built as a guesthouse, in case the Meiji Emperor visited Matsue.

It has unique Western and Japanese touches – tatami mats next to carpet. It is free to enter the mansion, and there is a lovely Tea Room.

There are other lovely areas around the castle, with more signs indicating that Hearn also enjoyed the grounds.

You can take a boat tour around the castle moat and canals.

The well preserved samurai district is walking distance from the castle and offers charming shops and restaurants.

Matsue is worth a visit. Not because Lafcadio Hearn or a bunch of bloggers said so, but because it is a charming city with a long rich history. I hope you visit and decide for yourself.  As for Hearn, I really don’t have anything against the guy. In fact, I have a Lafcadio Hearn Book sitting on my bedside table right now.

Details

From Tokyo, Izumo airport is approximately 75 minutes with several flights daily. You can take the 11.5 hour Izumo Sunrise overnight train (fully covered by Japan Rail Pass without a special compartment).

Matsue is 2.5 hours from Okayama by Limited Express Yakumo (fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass).

The easiest way to get around the city is the Lakeline Loop Bus. The loop starts and ends at Matsue Station, and a one day pass is 500 yen. You can purchase a the pass on the bus.

Find a hotel in Matsue.