Shorinzan Darumaji, Home of the Daruma Doll

Takasaki City in Gunma prefecture is known as the home of the Daruma doll (Fuku-Daruma); the Zen Buddhist temple Shorinzan Darumaji is its birthplace. If you have been to Japan you have no doubt encountered these ubiquitous good luck charms. The round dolls with blank eyes are most commonly red. According to tradition, you make a wish and fill in one eye. If it comes true, you fill in the second. Unbeknownst to many who buy the charm, the story of the Daruma dolls is actually terrifying.

From Shorinzan Darumaji Brochure

Daruma is the Japanese name for Bodhidharma, the father of zen buddhism. As the story goes, Bodhidharma spent nine years gazing at a wall in a cave behind the Shaolin Monastery in China. As you might expect after staying still for so long, his arms and legs atrophied. He fell asleep after seven years, and  cut off his eye-lids to prevent it from happening again.

Japan’s Shorinzan Darumaji was founded by a Chinese buddhist monk named Shinetsu in the late 17th century.  Shinetsu would draw Bodhidharma with a single brushstroke, and give the pictures to local farmers to ward off evil. During a period of famine a century later, a brilliant priest named Tohgaku taught the farmers how to make wooden dolls based on the pictures as a second source of income.

So basically, Japan’s most popular round good luck doll is a cuter rendition of a monk who lost his arms and legs to atrophy and cut off his eyelids. Perhaps by drawing in the eyes, you are giving him back his sight in exchange for your wish? On the other hand, an ingenious monk took the talisman effects of Daruma and created a viable new income stream for a farming community during a difficult time. Today Takasaki retains over 80% of the Fuku-Daruma market, with more than 100 local families producing the dolls.

I recently visited Shorinzan Darumaji on a trip through Takasaki. It is clear that you are in the right place as soon as you exit Gumma Yawata Station.

The Daruma guide you on the walk to the temple.

And mark its entrance.

There are a lot of steps between the entrance and the temple.

But you are rewarded with a nice view.

There is a Daruma museum.  Unfortunately I arrived at the same time as a few dozen kindergarteners on a field trip.  The one room museum was a little crowded to say the least, so I’ll see it next time.

The temple is completely surrounded by Daruma dolls. Once your wish comes true, you can return your Daruma doll to the temple with an offering, and have it burned in a ritual ceremony.

It’s impressive to see so many Daruma in one place. These days the dolls are typically made of light paper mâché, but there are so many that the old temple seems to bow under the weight.

Many of the larger Daruma dolls are brought by businesses. I guess the Daruma helped 7-Eleven’s wish come true.

Some people think Daruma are scary and intense, but story aside, I have always thought that they were kind of cute.

While you are at the temple, you can also write your wish on a Daruma themed ema (good luck plaque).

The temple shop has the largest variety of Daruma dolls that I have ever seen. Every year in January, the temple holds a Daruma doll festival that draws hundreds of thousands of people. You can purchase Daruma dolls have them blessed to bring good luck for the year.

If you are in Takasaki or passing through, Shorinzan Darumaji is worth a visit.

Besides being known as the home of Daruma, Takasaki is called the City of Pasta. Known for it’s top quality wheat production, there are good Italian restaurants all over the city. For a real Takasaki experience, cap off your visit to Shorinzan Darumaji with a pasta dinner.

Details

Shorinzan Darumaji is open from 9:00 – 17:00 daily.

From Takasaki Station it is an 8 minute ride on the Shinetsu Line to Gumma Yawata (hourly departures), covered by the Japan Rail Pass. It is a 15 minute walk or 5 minute taxi ride from the station to the temple.

From Takasaki Station, you can also take a 20 minute bus ride on the Shorinnzan Line. It is a 10 minute walk from the bus stop to the temple, but departures are infrequent during the week. The schedule is in Japanese, but No. 1 is Takasaki Station West Exit, and No. 20 is the Shorinzan Entrance.  X means Monday – Friday, and O means Saturday, Sunday, and Holidays.  If there is no mark, the bus runs every day.

Takasaki Station is less than 1 hour from Tokyo Station by Shinkansen, covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Find a hotel in Takasaki.

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