Hinase, In Search of Oyster Ice Cream

As tourists make their way into previous quiet villages and rural areas, it’s harder to find undiscovered destinations in Japan. It was a recent online photo of fried oyster soft serve that led me to Hinase, a small fishing port in Okayama. In 2005, it merged with the city of Bizen. Luckily for Hinase, it retains a station of the same name and a strong identity centered around oyster farming. In mid-February, crowds flock to the otherwise quiet town for the Oyster matsuri (festival).

The train was surprisingly packed for a rainy Sunday afternoon when we boarded in Okayama. I was relieved when the crowds got off at Bizen, where a matsuri (festival) was visible from the platform.

As the only people to get off the train at Hinase station, we were able to hail the one taxi waiting outside the station. Go Mi No Ichi fish market is only 7 minutes by car.

During the winter, the local fish market is a popular destination for area residents to pick up fresh oysters. Stalls and surrounding restaurants offer grilled oysters, fried oysters, oyster okonomiyaki, oyster rice, and other specialties. Beyond the traditional offerings, Hinase is home to the kaki furai (fried oyster) ice cream cone – two fried oysters with a soy sauce drizzle on the creamy Hokkaido soft serve.

After reading about the unusual ice ream online, we made the one hour trek from Okayama. I love the balance of salty and sweet. Haven’t you ever dipped french fries in a milkshake? Unfortunately, the fried oysters were pulled from a refrigerated take-out case. I couldn’t tell if it was because it was later in the day, or if it is usual practice to prevent the ice cream from melting too quickly. It was interesting, but not something I would try again. The excellent ice ream with a drizzle of soy sauce on the other hand was unexpectedly addicting. It’s a perfect combination of salty and sweet with a punch of umami – I may try it at home.

The best surprise was the walk back to the station.

The town has character.

Even the sidewalk is a reminder of the town’s marine roots.

If you find yourself in Okayama Prefecture, stop by Hinase for (hot) oysters and explore the town.

Details

Hinase is about one hour from Okayama on the JR Ako line, fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass.

Go Mi No Ichi Fish Market is about 7 minutes by taxi, or 20 minutes by foot from the station. The fish market is closed on Tuesday. Most of the stalls are open from 09:00 – 16:00, or until the food sells out.

If you are going to Hinase, it is recommended to stay in Okayama.

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