Tokyo Eats, Breakfast at Bills

Australian celebrity chef Bill Granger found an untapped breakfast market ten years ago when he opened the first International location of his popular Bills restaurant in Japan. It was all but impossible to get a table for breakfast without a really long wait. Since then, there have been a steady stream of new breakfast spots and new locations of Bills. There has also been a sustained pancake craze. If you see a really long line outside a cafe, there is a good chance that it serves pancakes. Pancakes shops are everywhere – American pancakes (“New York” and “Hawaiian” varieties), the fluffier Japanese hot cakes of my childhood, and the airy and unbelievably tall soufflé-like pancakes that have taken the internet by storm. This means that it is usually possible to get into Bills early on a weekday morning without an extended wait.

I have an appreciation for each pancake type, but Bills’ ricotta hotcakes with banana and honeycomb butter is probably my favorite. The ricotta makes them lighter than the traditional American or Japanese style, with more substance and flavor than the latest soufflé pancakes. The honeycomb butter takes it to a whole new level. It really is eating dessert for breakfast, the hotcakes are listed as a dessert on the dinner menu.

I’m not exaggerating when I say Bill Granger is famous for his scrambled eggs. He’s been called the “Egg Master of Sydney” by the New York Times and the Times of London described his eggs as the best in the world. You can order the scrambled eggs as part of the “Full Aussie” breakfast, but I love the simplicity of the scrambled organic eggs and toast. The pillowy egg ribbons are perfectly rich and buttery. An order of herbed garlic mushrooms is the perfect side.

The coconut bread is also popular. It’s arrives toasted and packs a serious coconut punch. It’s not too sweet, but it is a little dense, and best shared.

It’s almost impossible to choose between the hotcakes and eggs. The best solution is to go with someone who is willing to order both and share. If you don’t live near a Bills, order one of Bill Granger’s cookbooks and make your own Bills breakfast at home.

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Details

The original Bills is located in Sydney, and there are several locations in Japan, including Tokyo, Kanazawa, Osaka, and Fukuoka. You can also visit Bills in Seoul, Honolulu, and London.

The Japan locations are generally open from 8:30 – 11pm, and only accept reservations after 3pm.  Please check the Bills Japan website for specific details.