Eiheiji, The Temple of Eternal Peace

Located deep in the cedar covered mountains of Fukui Prefecture, Eiheiji is a large temple complex and active monastery of the Soto sect of Zen Buddhism. Covered walkways connect the temple’s 70 buildings and provide shelter from the heavy snow that falls much of the winter.

Eihei Dogen founded Eiheiji  as a training monastery in 1244, and it still serves the same purpose today. Two and three day meditation sessions are available, but advance application and serious meditation experience is required.

Eiheiji is only about 15 kilometers from Fukui City, but it feels like a long distance and hundreds of years away from modern Japan. The approach to Eheiji is bordered by peaceful cedar woods, a stream, and plenty of moss.

Visitors enter through the reception hall and must view an orientation video on the rules of the complex. Since it is a working monastery, not a tourist site, respectful silence and modest clothing are required, and photos of the monks and staff are strictly prohibited.

Shoes are left at the door, and visitors shuffle quietly through the wood corridors, occasionally getting a clear view of the beautiful buildings.

The walkways provide shelter from the snow and rain.  We were there during a torrential downpour, but the sound of the rain on the wood, and the lush green surroundings provided the perfect atmosphere.  

The smooth weathered wood has a beautiful patina, and the corridors are lined with beautiful old glass windows.

Hatto (Dharma Hall) is the highest point of the temple. The gold is striking against the natural wood and subdued colors of the rest of the complex.

Fukui is still relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists, and we saw few people besides the resident monks.

Budda’s teachings line the walls towards the exit. My husband is constantly puzzled by my large collection of shoes that tend to overwhelm our small entryway.  He was pleased to point out the prominently displayed words of wisdom, Illumination at Our Feet.

Arranging our shoes neatly, we bring harmony to our minds,

when our minds are harmonious, we arrange shoes neatly.

If we arrange shoes neatly when we take them off,

our minds won’t be disturbed when we put them on.

If someone leaves shoes in disarray,

let us silently bring them to order.

Such an act surely will bring harmony

to the minds of people around the world.

Details

Eiheiji is open all year except on New Years Day.  It is open 8:30 – 17:00 Nov – April, and from 8:00 to 17:30 from May to October. Admission is 500 Yen.

The express bus Eiheiji Liner departs Fukui Station for Eiheiji approximately once an hour, and costs 720 yen one way. It takes approximately 30 minutes.  You must buy a ticket from the vending machine by the bus stop before boarding. On the return, there are two stores that sell return tickets.  The bus driver will point them out when you arrive.

There are plenty of stores selling food, buddhist prayer beads and meditation accessories, and Kawaii monk souvenirs.  Don’t miss the hot red bean bun.

Fukui is about 3.5 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen and JR Limited Express.  It’s only about two hours from Osaka on the scenic Thunderbird Express. Don’t forget to check out the dinosaurs at Fukui Station.

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